The skirt-like kilt which is familiar to us today evolved around the middle of the 18th century from the more commonly worn and functional belted plaid (in Gaelic, feileadh breacan or feileadh mor, "the big kilt").
如今廣為人知的短裙般的蘇格蘭方格呢裙最早出現(xiàn)在18世紀(jì)中期左右，是從當(dāng)時(shí)穿著比較普遍又實(shí)用的束帶格紋呢子披肩（蓋爾語(yǔ)稱feileadh breacan 或feileadh mor，意思是“大格呢裙”）演變而來(lái)的。

The original kilt 最早的方格呢裙
The feileadh mor was a longer untailored garment, around five metres in length, which was gathered and then belted at the waist to provide cover for both the upper and lower body. From the waist down, the feileadh mor resembled a modern kilt while the remaining material above the waist was draped over the shoulder and pinned there.
大格呢裙是一種未經(jīng)剪裁的長(zhǎng)款外衣，長(zhǎng)約五米，纏繞全身后在腰部扎上束帶，可以同時(shí)遮蓋上下身。從腰部以下看，大格呢裙與現(xiàn)代的方格呢裙類似，而腰部以上的其余布料則搭在肩上并扣牢。

This upper portion could be arranged in a variety of ways around the shoulders according to the demands of weather, temperature or freedom of movement required. At the end of day, the belt could be unbuckled to transform the feileadh mor into a warm covering for the night. The Gaelic plaid actually means "blanket".
上半身在肩部的束扎方式有很多種，視天氣、溫度或活動(dòng)的自由度需要而定。到了晚上，解開(kāi)腰帶后，大格呢裙又可以變成一張?zhí)鹤?，用于抵御夜間的寒氣。在蓋爾語(yǔ)中，格呢披肩其實(shí)就是“毯子”的意思。

The kilt evolves 方格呢裙的演變
The feileadh mor was simplified by disposing of its top half, leaving the belt and the skirt below. The resulting creation became known as the feileadh beg, or "little kilt".
通過(guò)舍棄上半身而只保留腰帶和下半身的裙子，大格呢裙得以簡(jiǎn)化，由此形成的服裝被稱作feileadh beg，即“小格呢裙”。

This was reputedly at the behest of an Englishman running an ironworks at Invergarry who felt his kilted employees needed a greater freedom of movement to do their work. Whatever the impetus for change was, the kilt now became a tailored garment with sewn-in pleats, making it neater and far more easy to put on and wear. The upper half of the big kilt evolved into the separate plaid (or sash) which is now worn at more formal events.
據(jù)說(shuō)該設(shè)計(jì)是應(yīng)英國(guó)因弗格瑞一位鋼鐵廠老板的要求而做，他認(rèn)為穿方格呢裙的員工在工作中需要更大的肢體自由。不管變化的原因?yàn)楹?，方格呢裙如今已?jīng)成為需量身訂制的打褶服裝，更為整潔且容易穿著。大格呢裙的上半身則逐漸演變?yōu)閱为?dú)的格呢披肩（或肩帶），如今多在較為正式的場(chǎng)合穿著。

Proscription and survival 廢除和存續(xù)
Following the Jacobite defeat at Culloden in 1746, the kilt and and other aspects of Highland dress were outlawed and its continued survival during these years was largely due to its adoption by Highland regiments serving with the British army. Highland regiments still wear the kilt on regular basis (although no longer into battle) but it is not an everyday article of dress in Scotland.
1746年，詹姆斯黨人在可洛登戰(zhàn)敗后，方格呢裙和其他高地服飾都被禁止穿著；在那些年里，方格呢裙能夠存續(xù)下來(lái)主要由于高地軍團(tuán)在為英國(guó)軍隊(duì)服役時(shí)仍穿著它們。高地軍團(tuán)如今依然定期穿方格呢裙（當(dāng)然不再穿著參加戰(zhàn)斗），但這已非蘇格蘭人的日常服飾。

Visitors are more likely to see kilt-wearers at formal celebrations such as weddings and at Highland Games or similar gatherings. And although the kilt is typically regarded as being Highland dress, more kilts are now worn in the Lowland cities than in the Highlands.
游客在正式慶典上看到人們穿著方格呢裙的機(jī)會(huì)更大一些，比如婚禮、高地運(yùn)動(dòng)會(huì)或類似的集會(huì)。雖然方格呢裙被看作是典型的高地服飾，但如今一些低地城市的人們更常穿著。

The kilt today 今日的方格呢裙
Modern kilts have up to eight metres of material which is thickly pleated at the back and sides, with the pleats stitched together only at the waistband. Fashion designers have also tried to update the kilt and make it appeal to a wider audience by using non-tartan designs such as camouflage and material such as leather.
現(xiàn)代方格呢裙需要長(zhǎng)達(dá)8米的布料才能制成，身后和兩側(cè)都需要打厚褶，而且褶皺只在腰帶處縫合。時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)師也在努力使方格呢裙跟上時(shí)代，通過(guò)采用無(wú)格布料設(shè)計(jì)，比如采用迷彩風(fēng)格的布料和皮革布料等，來(lái)適應(yīng)更多人的品味。

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