50年拍5萬姑娘 街拍鼻祖走了 半個時尚界哭了
作者:CLEMENCE MICHALLON
來源:每日郵報
2016-07-02 12:00
Bill Cunningham, the New York fashion photographer known for his shots of emerging trends on the streets of New York City, died on Saturday at age of 87 after being hospitalized for a stroke, the New York Times reported.
比爾·坎寧漢是一位大名鼎鼎的紐約時尚攝影師,非常善于用鏡頭捕捉紐約大街上的時尚潮流。據(jù)《紐約時報》報道,87歲的坎寧漢于上周六去世了。此前,他已因中風(fēng)住進(jìn)醫(yī)院。
He was known for wearing his trademark blue jacket and riding around on his bicycle with a small camera bag strapped to his waist. Cunningham worked for the New York Times for nearly 40 years, operating 'as a dedicated chronicler of fashion and as an unlikely cultural anthropologist,' the newspaper said.
坎寧漢因?yàn)榻?jīng)常身穿標(biāo)志性藍(lán)夾克、腰系小攝像機(jī)包、蹬著自行車穿行在大街小巷而聞名,他已為《紐約時報》工作近40年,被報紙?jiān)u為“甘于奉獻(xiàn)的時尚記錄者和不可思議的文化人類學(xué)家”。
After serving in the Army, Cunningham wrote fashion pieces for the Chicago Tribune and started taking photographs of people on the streets. A chance photograph of Greta Garbo got the attention of the New York Times and in 1978 he began publishing a regular series of photographs in the paper - eventually becoming one of the most influential figures in the fashion world.
坎寧漢從軍隊(duì)退役后,成為了《芝加哥論壇報》的時尚寫手,并開始進(jìn)行街拍。因?yàn)橐淮闻既坏臋C(jī)會,他拍攝的葛麗泰·嘉寶引起了《紐約時報》的注意。自1978年開始,坎寧漢定期在報紙上發(fā)表系列照片,最終成為了時尚界最具影響力的人物之一。
'I've said many times that we all get dressed for Bill,' Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour said in a 2010 documentary dedicated to Cunningham, called Cunningham New York.
《Vogue》雜志總編安娜·溫圖爾在2010年獻(xiàn)給坎寧漢的紀(jì)錄片《我們都為比爾著盛裝(Cunningham New York)》中說:“我說過很多次,我們都在為比爾著盛裝?!?/div>
Cunningham operated with the conviction that fashion shows didn't happen on runways but on the street - and his essays in the New York Times documented decades of evolving trends on the New York pavements. His keen eyes spotted popular items of clothing ranging from the elegant to the tacky, and his lens capture 'fanny packs Birkin bags, gingham shirts and fluorescent biker shorts', the New York Times said in an obituary of Cunningham Saturday. 'I'm not interested in celebrities with their free dresses. I'm interested in clothes,' Cunningham said about his own work in the 2010 documentary.
坎寧漢堅(jiān)信時尚不在T臺上,而在大街上,他發(fā)表于《紐約時報》的文章記錄了紐約街道上數(shù)十年的時尚潮流演變歷程。他用敏銳的目光鎖定各類時尚單品,從優(yōu)雅系到潮流派;《紐約時報》在周日為坎寧漢發(fā)的訃告中說,他的鏡頭捕捉到了“范妮包、柏金包、格子衫和熒光騎行短褲”。坎寧漢在2010年的紀(jì)錄片中談到自己的工作時曾說:“我對穿著隨意的名人沒有興趣,我的興趣點(diǎn)在服飾上?!?/div>
Cunningham may have been known to every important figure of his industry, but his own life was a model of asceticism, the New York Times reported. He had breakfast every day at the same deli - Stage Star Deli on West 55th Street, and usually purchased a sausage and egg sandwich and a cup of coffee for less than $3. Cunningham did not have a television, did not go to the movie theater, and until 2010 lived in the same studio where he kept his negatives. His single bed was pictured in the 2010 documentary among rows and rows of file cabinets. 'If you don't take money, it can't tell you what to do,' Cunningham, who also appeared at a launderette, said.
據(jù)《紐約時報》報道,雖然時尚界的每位重要人物都認(rèn)識坎寧漢,但他卻過著一種典型的禁欲主義生活。他每天早晨都在同一家食品店用餐,就是55街上的星光舞臺食品店,通常只點(diǎn)一個雞蛋香腸三明治和一杯咖啡,消費(fèi)不超過3美元。坎寧漢沒有電視機(jī),也不去影院和劇院,2010年之前一直住在他存放膠片的工作室里。在2010年的紀(jì)錄片中可以看到,他的單人床就放在成排的文件柜中間。紀(jì)錄片中還拍攝到坎寧漢出現(xiàn)在自動洗衣房里,他在那里說:“如果你不要錢,錢就不能使喚你了?!?/div>
The fashion world paid tribute to Cunningham's talent - and his unusual character - after the news of his death.
坎寧漢去世的消息發(fā)出后,整個時尚界都對他的才華以及不同尋常的性格表達(dá)了敬意。
聲明:本雙語文章的中文翻譯系滬江英語原創(chuàng)內(nèi)容,轉(zhuǎn)載請注明出處。中文翻譯僅代表譯者個人觀點(diǎn),僅供參考。如有不妥之處,歡迎指正。
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