Some seafood restaurants don't serve fresh fish. They take a product that's already been frozen and processed, and then they serve it to you and charge you an
exorbitant amount. You deserve to see food that's fresh and delicious! But you can avoid these places. We spoke to Jonathan Gill (!!), executive chef at Portland, Oregon's RingSide Fish House, to find out what the red flags are in a seafood restaurant.
有些海鮮店不提供新鮮的魚(yú)。他們的往往都是那冷凍處理過(guò)的魚(yú)作為食品原料,將做好的魚(yú)提供給顧客,然后收取價(jià)格不菲的餐費(fèi)。作為顧客,你有權(quán)知道自己購(gòu)買的原料魚(yú)應(yīng)該是新鮮美味的。但是你不會(huì)被允許進(jìn)入(他們加工食品)的場(chǎng)所。讓我們請(qǐng)到Joantha Gill,俄勒岡的Ringside Fish House 的主廚,該餐廳位于波特蘭來(lái)幫助我們,如果在海鮮店發(fā)現(xiàn)下列情形之一,那么就需要引起警覺(jué)。
Editor's Note: These are rules for a seafood restaurant, not one that serves sushi. Sushi is required to be flash-frozen. Gill is referring to fresh fish being cooked in a seafood restaurant.
編者按:這些建議只適用于海鮮店,不包括壽司店。壽司所使用的海鮮都是速凍的。Gill所給出的參考,適用于活魚(yú)現(xiàn)做的海鮮店。
1. All the fish is served fried
所有的魚(yú)都是炸的
"If I went to a seafood restaurant and all the fish was fried, then you know it probably came in frozen, and it might even come in like that. Or if they just serve grilled
salmon or mahi-mahi, and everything else is breaded and fried, then they're not serving up fresh fish."
“如果你去一家海鮮店用餐,發(fā)現(xiàn)他們所提供魚(yú)都是炸的,那你可能就要考慮這些都是從冰柜里面出來(lái)的,甚至買來(lái)就是冰的(死的)魚(yú)。或者這家店只提供烤三文魚(yú)或者海豚魚(yú),其余的要不是煎的要不就是炸的,那就可以判斷他們店里沒(méi)有活魚(yú)。”
2. The restaurant admits it doesn't get in fresh fish every day
餐館承認(rèn)不會(huì)每天進(jìn)活魚(yú)
"A good, busy restaurant is going to have fish come in every day, and it's not going to be frozen. There's no need for it, and most restaurants that specialize in seafood should be flexible enough to serve alternatives if a certain fish becomes?unavailable. You're going to want to eat fish fresh, not frozen. If it's frozen, it's either out of season, shipped in from far away, or it's a processing-plant product."[/en]
“一家生意興隆、口碑良好的海鮮店每天都會(huì)進(jìn)魚(yú),而且不需要冷凍,因?yàn)椴恍枰?。大多?shù)餐館,特別是海鮮店,應(yīng)對(duì)不同顧客的要求,如果某一種魚(yú)沒(méi)有辦法吃到鮮活的,那采取靈活的手段(存放在冰箱)。人們都想吃活魚(yú)而不是冷凍過(guò)的魚(yú)。如果魚(yú)是冷凍過(guò)的,除非是過(guò)了吃某種魚(yú)的季節(jié),要不來(lái)自很遠(yuǎn)地方,不然就是處理過(guò)的冷凍魚(yú)。”
3. The menu lists the cost of the fish as "Market Price"
菜單上標(biāo)出“市場(chǎng)價(jià)格”
"You'll usually see 'Market Price' on menus in chain restaurants, or places that do a lot of touristy business. The seafood market doesn't go up and down in wild swings. They should know what the price is, and they should be able to put it on the menu. Usually restaurants put 'Market Price' on the menu because they want to give the illusion the fish is fresh. As if they're picking it up at the market every day, which is probably not the case. They're not going up to a boat in the docks, handing over cash, and asking the fisherman, 'What's it cost today?'"Of course, the exception is if you see 'Market Price' on one of those little shacks on the
pier!"
“你通常都會(huì)在連鎖餐館的菜單上標(biāo)有市場(chǎng)價(jià)格,或者是旅游點(diǎn)的餐館里。但是海鮮的市場(chǎng)價(jià)格不會(huì)忽高忽低得離譜。餐館經(jīng)營(yíng)者們應(yīng)該知道價(jià)格,也應(yīng)該標(biāo)在菜單上。但是通常參觀在菜單上標(biāo)的市場(chǎng)價(jià)格,往往是為了給顧客造成“我們餐館提供的魚(yú)是新鮮的”假象。除非他們每天都去市場(chǎng)上收集價(jià)格,不然他們的動(dòng)機(jī)就不純。因?yàn)樗麄冏匀徊豢赡芘艿酱a頭上,給漁民們錢,然后問(wèn):“今天魚(yú)的成本是多少?”“當(dāng)然有一種例外的情況,就是你在碼頭上的小屋中看到的‘市場(chǎng)價(jià)格’。”
菜單上面的魚(yú)不是符合“可持續(xù)性海鮮項(xiàng)目”
"Seafood Watch is a great resource, and a great app. Users can recommend restaurants that have a sustainable seafood program. And restaurants can petition to get on the app by sending them menus. Granted, it's not always the most definitive list. I've worked at restaurants that have been on and not on the list, and both places sourced as sustainably as possible."
“Seafood Watch”上面有著豐富的資源,也是一款好用的應(yīng)用程序。食客們可以推薦參加“可持續(xù)性海鮮項(xiàng)目”的餐館。餐館也可以通過(guò)發(fā)送自己的菜單來(lái)加入這個(gè)程序。在這個(gè)程序上面的餐廳名單不是固定不變的。我曾經(jīng)工作過(guò)的餐廳,在推薦餐廳的名單上,時(shí)有時(shí)無(wú),而這些餐廳都能盡可能的保證自己所進(jìn)的食材符合可持續(xù)性的規(guī)定。
5. The menu doesn't say if the fish is wild
菜單上沒(méi)有說(shuō)這個(gè)魚(yú)是不是野生的
"If the menu says it's salmon, but doesn't tell you if it's wild or farmed, that's a red flag. Nobody wants to put farmed seafood on the menu, and they certainly won't highlight it. If it's wild, they're going to tell you."
如果菜單上只說(shuō)這個(gè)是三文魚(yú),但是并沒(méi)有告知是野生的還是養(yǎng)殖的,那就需要引起重視。沒(méi)有餐廳把“養(yǎng)殖的”標(biāo)在海鮮菜單上,不標(biāo)明的原因就是他就是賣(養(yǎng)殖的海鮮)而不想讓食客注意。如果餐廳賣的是野生的魚(yú),那他們就會(huì)(大大方方)地告訴你。
6. The fish is served without skin
上的魚(yú)沒(méi)有魚(yú)皮
"I like to see restaurants serve fish skin-on -- you can look at it and tell what it is (and what it isn't!) when you're eating it. When you're getting a pan-roasted piece of fish, you want to see the skin on. There are some exceptions with fish where you don't eat the skin, like certain flatfish. But if someone tries to sell you striped bass or black bass and it comes out and has no skin, that's a red flag."Any restaurant bringing in beautiful, fresh, whole fish (or even a filleted fish the restaurant's
fishmonger takes care of) would want the skin on. Otherwise it's coming in processed. As chefs, we'd rather get in whole fish to have better control over its shelf life. If it comes in filleted, well, when was it filleted? How was it treated? You can check whole fish before you accept the delivery of it, and its shelf life will be a lot longer."
“我覺(jué)得餐館的魚(yú)要有魚(yú)皮,看著才安心。這樣在你吃魚(yú)的時(shí)候,你可以通過(guò)魚(yú)皮來(lái)判斷是哪種魚(yú)(或者不是哪種魚(yú))。除非有的魚(yú)你不想吃魚(yú)皮,比如某種比目魚(yú)。如果有餐廳在上條紋鱸魚(yú)或者是黑鱸魚(yú)的時(shí)候,沒(méi)有魚(yú)皮,那就是可能是一個(gè)陷阱信號(hào)。任何餐館都會(huì)想買入外觀周正、活力新鮮、沒(méi)有殘缺、魚(yú)皮尚在的魚(yú)。(或者是魚(yú)販子處理得當(dāng)?shù)聂~(yú)片)。不然就是加工過(guò)的魚(yú)。作為一個(gè)主廚,我們更喜歡整條魚(yú),因?yàn)榭梢员ur的時(shí)間可以更長(zhǎng)。如果是魚(yú)片,我們就要知道,它們是什么時(shí)候切片?做了什么處理?在你接受整條魚(yú)之前要確保你把魚(yú)全面地檢查一遍,這樣你就能讓它的保質(zhì)期很久些?!?/div>
7. The seafood restaurant only has tuna, salmon, cod, or sea bass
海鮮餐廳里面只有金槍魚(yú),三文魚(yú),鱈魚(yú),和海鱸魚(yú)
"You know that a seafood restaurant knows what they're doing if they have fresh-shucked oysters. Anything that comes in live and has to be dealt with, processed, and served up in a short time frame means you're dealing with a higher-caliber restaurant. If you see steamed clams, mussels, or shellfish dishes, it tells me the restaurant's doing volume and they're treating their seafood great. If you see sea urchin, or other seafood you might not be totally familiar with that strays from the four major fish (tuna, salmon,
cod, or sea bass) -- you know it's a good spot. Shrimp will also be frozen nine times out of 10."
“如果一家餐廳里面有新鮮剝殼的牡蠣,那你就知道這個(gè)餐館經(jīng)營(yíng)的是什么。任何食材從進(jìn)口到處理、烹飪加工,到上菜整個(gè)一系列過(guò)程很快,那就說(shuō)明這是一家高水準(zhǔn)的餐廳,如果一家餐廳提供蒸的蛤、貽貝或貝類,而且數(shù)量很多那么說(shuō)明這家餐廳對(duì)于海鮮的處理非常得當(dāng)。如果在一家餐廳,你看見(jiàn)海膽,或者是其他除(金槍魚(yú),三文魚(yú),鱈魚(yú),和海鱸魚(yú))的不是非常熟悉的海鮮,那就是一家好的海鮮店。因?yàn)槲r十有八九都是冷凍的?!?/div>
8. The server can't tell you where the fish is from
服務(wù)員說(shuō)不出魚(yú)是哪里產(chǎn)的
"Talk to your server and ask them where the fish is from. The better places will be able to tell you. If the waitstaff doesn't know off-hand, it's not a black mark against them, but they should be able to get you the answer pretty quick, and tell you which state it landed in. If they say, 'It's from the Pacific' -- well, yeah, duh. I'm sure it is. If they can't tell you where it's from, they probably don't get in whole, fresh fish. It's probably portion-cut and frozen."
“和服務(wù)員溝通,問(wèn)他魚(yú)是從哪里來(lái)的。如果是個(gè)好地方,那么肯定會(huì)告訴你,如果服務(wù)員當(dāng)即就說(shuō)不知道的話,這并非有意刁難,但是他們應(yīng)該那能很快回答你的問(wèn)題。如果他們說(shuō):“來(lái)自太平洋”——嗯,是的,我肯定它是的。如果他們說(shuō)不出來(lái),那上的魚(yú)可能就不是新鮮的整條魚(yú),可能是冰凍過(guò)的一塊魚(yú)?!?/div>
9. Oysters are not served properly
上的牡蠣不新鮮
"If they're not serving oysters fresh-shucked on the half shell, and they won't do it for you that way, then it's probably not the best seafood restaurant to be in. If I went to a place that only had oysters Rockefeller, I'd put them in the same
category as I would a chain restaurant. I'd be a little suspicious. It probably came in frozen -- you can buy oysters pasteurized and pre-shucked on the half shell. Instead, you'd want the restaurant serving oysters from a place closest to you geographically. I'd look for something that's as local as it can be."
“如果他們上的牡蠣不是附著在一半的殼上(說(shuō)明不新鮮),如果你提出來(lái),但是他們也不同意這么做,那么這家海鮮店恐怕不是那么好。如果我去一家店只提供洛克菲勒牡蠣,那我就會(huì)把它標(biāo)簽成連鎖餐廳,同時(shí)我也會(huì)感到有點(diǎn)懷疑,這些牡蠣可能是冷凍的,只有保質(zhì)期內(nèi)的牡蠣,是巴氏殺菌過(guò),而且能夠附著在一半的殼上。同時(shí),你要的牡蠣最好就產(chǎn)自附近,而我也盡可能會(huì)選擇當(dāng)?shù)禺a(chǎn)的,(這樣就能保證牡蠣的新鮮)。”
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